EVPlus - Gen 2 Prius - Plug-in Conversion Blog
This is where you will find out how it all goes together...
Installing a PlugIn Supply
(PIS) "10KW" system into a right hand drive
Gen II Prius (2008) in Australia.
The Generation 2 (Gen 2) model
produced from 2004 to early 2009. Model:
- EVPLUS has only described what was done to one
Australian Prius which has worked very well.
- EVPLUS takes no responsibility for any problems that may
occur due to work that you do on a vehicle.
- EVPLUS may have errors in this description of work. It
is up to you to check this before you proceed.
- EVPLUS is not in the business of doing Prius Plug-in
conversions, but will assist with advice only.
...Please make use of the menu on the left.
EV Mode not
Added by admin
After installing and using the PIS system,
I was upset to hear lots of beeping at times and thought that the
PIS Front Controller had problems. Associated with the beeping
was the notice flashing up on the screen "EV Mode not available
at this time..." or similar.
(PIS = Plug In Supply, California)
Before we go too much further, firstly let
me tell you a bit about part of the wiring from the PIS Front
Controller to the Prius.
There are two wires which connect from the Front Controller to
the wiring of the Prius EV switch (see "EV Switch Wiring" menu
item on the left.) The EV switch comes preinstalled in the
Australian Gen 2 Prius.
After much listening to beeping and a lot
of thinking and watching to see when the beeping occurred, the
problem is, I think, a design / setup problem with Front
Controllers sent to Australia (which are the same ones used in
In the US Prius, the top EV mode speed is around 34mph(or more I have
read - someone please verify this for me, thanks).
The Australian Prius is set to turn off / not allow "EV Mode"
above 45kph (around 28mph).
This causes a problem between 28mph and 34mph when the front
controller tries to turn on the EV Mode. Of course in Australia
that is always not allowed and it keeps trying and beeping,
trying and beeping, about every 6 seconds.
The reason this is very annoying is that a popular maximum
suburban road speed (off the main roads) is 50kph (31mph), right
in the middle of this disallowed range. (The main roads are
I asked Robb from PIS if he could supply a
special Front Controller for us Aussies and possibly New
Zealanders and possibly Europeans. I am willing to pay for it.
Robb is a great guy and easy to correspond
with, but this time I didn't like his response...
change the software. No demand except from yourself to justify
"No. The software
is based on Toyota software and I cant change it."
"The beeping is normal. It does not beep all the
time. I don't know why."
I have worked out why and told him.
It is not the Toyota software that needs changing, it is the
programming in the PIS Front Controller.
So, after you non-US residents install the
PIS Front Controller and have the same result as I have above,
please ask Robb to send you a special Front Controller... or
better still ask him to supply you one specially programmed for
your country, when ordering it. Specify maximum EV Mode speed =
Please let me know how you go.
Installing the JLD404 Metering
Added by admin
The JLD404 meter is ideal for this
situation to keep across the monitoring of the pack Voltage,
Current in and out and Ampere Hours in and out. It also has a
Time function to keep track of hour long it has been monitoring.
The JLD404 (mine has red LED digits) and the associated 150Amp / 75mV
shunt were purchased from
The measurements made are saved in
non-volatile memory so the device only needs to be powered when
the car is being used or charged. It is reset by pushing and
holding in the button, second from the right
The JLD404 is powered from the OEM 12V battery via an isolated
12V - 12V DC-DC converter.
The following photos show where and how it
It was difficult finding a spot to put this
meter. I eventually worked out that there was room behind the
rear section interior light
Now with the light removed, it will allow
the JLD404 to extend behind the panel.
We didn't use this light much, and I may put the light back
sometime, just to the right of where it was.
A close up of the cut-out required. The
cutting was done with the Dremel, which, with it's variable speed
and a diamond tipped saw blade, did a great job.
The perfect spot for it... I have now added
a shade over the top to prevent the sun shining on it.
Installing The Battery
Added by admin
The battery is made up of 76
off 40Ah Winston LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate)
The battery frame (shown
elsewhere) contains these cells in four rows of nineteen.
The battery frame sits where
the the Rear Deck Floor Box (Black Tray) used to be and spare
wheel used to be under that. Both will not be returning to the
The first few photos show
the method of sealing off the front and rear opening under the
This is necessary because once installed if something was to fall
in and go under the frame into the wheel-well, it would be
As mentioned above it is
necessary to seal off under the battery frame, this is done with
pieces of expanded polyethylene, cut to the precise shape of the
place they have to seal against. This was done with some careful
use of a contour gauge. The rear piece has two vents fitted to
allow air circulation around the cells of the battery.
This is looking towards the
rear at the back seal. These pieces are glued to the car but not
to the battery frame - they are self supporting. Polyurethane
glue was used.
The is the sealing piece
that stops things falling down the back of the battery box.
Battery frame now installed.
Looking straight down the front of the battery frame (rear of the
Overall view of the
installed battery frame.
76 cells in position...
76 cells now held down with
the 25mm "mudguard" washer and a Nyloc nut. Originally (as shown
elsewhere), I was going to use spring washers and nuts. I feel
that the Nyloc nut is much better.
I would like to thank fellow AEVA member Steve R for helping me
place and arrange the cells into the frame. Once the cells were
all located the end clamping screws on the right hand side (shown
in "Battery Frame" section) were tightened against the clamping
plate, to keep the cells all tight in each row.
Now the felt covered
"mudguard" washers affixed to nuts (silver solder) are put in
place and all made level with a low strength Loctite (222) to
keep them in position. These all align with the felt covered
angles on the edge of the frame.
Just testing that the clear
polycarbonate (Lexan) sheet fits nicely.. It Does!
Checking each cell and
recording the voltage (from the factory). All are sitting around
3.3V and the maximum deviation over the 76 cells was 22mV.
This shows the method of
interlinking the cells with braided straps and on top; the EV
Power BMS modules.
Every connection point,
interconnect, battery terminal etc, was cleaned with a brass wire
brush and then immediately coated with (NO-OX-ID
"A-SPECIAL") grease, prior to assembly.
This has to be done carefully as to not remove the plating, but
just to clean the surfaces.
This took hours to install
the interconnects and BMS modules...
All cells are now connected
and the BMS modules installed.
Now it was time to wire
the BMS loop from one cell to the next, to the next, to ...
... another couple of hours.
This highlighted section
shows the negative connection to the battery bank. See photos in
the "Battery Frame" section for the construction of the plastic
lined exit points.
This shows the positive
battery connection. See photos in the "Battery Frame" section for
the construction of the plastic lined exit points.
The final result is a 40Ah
battery pack of 251 Volts and a capacity of just under 10kWh.
As the positive battery cable leaves the
battery box, the first thing it comes to is the fuse.
This is a BUSSMANN FWH-125A 500Volt fuse. The total length is
91mm and the diameter of the centre section is 31mm. The lugs
suit 8mm bolts.
This fuse was encased in a short length of (40mm diam?) PVC water
pipe (painted orange) with rubber bungs in the ends with holes
for the cables.
Here is the end result of the wiring directly
from the battery. The one with the red lug is for the fuse and
the black lug one is for the 75mV shunt for the JLD404 meter.
The small connector has the HV wiring for the JLD404: red from
the fuse and black and blue from the shunt.
These units and then attached to the "near side" of the battery
frame just under the charger.
Now, with the imported mat
from the US (not available in Australia for the Gen2 Prius)
placed on top of the clear polycarbonate sheet. Very tidy!
Installing Heavy Duty
Added by admin
The original rear springs
have now been replaced with King Springs KTRR-106SP. (Catalogue)
These are bright yellow in
colour, and thicker steel (13mm) compared to the original springs (11mm).
GMR motors installed these
for me - Thanks Gordon.
This has raised the rear of
the car about 25mm... keeping in mind that the battery frame and
LiFePO4 cells have not been installed yet.
I will update this
measurement after the batteries have been installed.
Heavy Duty springs from King Springs.
Catalogue Part: KTRR-106SP
Comparison of the original
on the left with the new Heavy Duty one on the right.
Notice the thicker spring steel in the heavy duty one - 13mm
compared with the original 11mm dia.
The left-rear and right-rear springs are identical.
Photo courtesy of:
lopezjm2001 (PRIUSchat Forum)
Replaced rear right.
Replaced rear left.
The car is shown here with the heavy duty
springs installed, but the extra batteries are not installed yet.
25mm higher at the back is
not very noticeable.
Standard Prius rear
springs for sale!
Now to start installing
the LiFePO4 cells...that will bring it back down...
are the figures after installing the Heavy Duty springs at the
Notice that it now
basically back to standard Prius height. Excellent.
Approx. 120Kg was added to to rear of the car: Battery frame,
batteries and control boxes etc.
HUB TO GUARD (mm)
|Heavy Duty Springs
|Battery Pack Installed
Added by admin
The charger was one of the
most difficult jobs, I had to try to place it out of the way in
the boot (trunk) so that is didn't take up much space. I kind of
succeeded but this left me very little room for the other items
that had to be put somewhere. I would like to thank Steve R (a
fellow AEVA member) for helping with this work, it was good to
have two brains working at miscellaneous problems along the way.
This is what the original Gen2 Prius rear left
section looks like...
...and with the boot floor and trim over
OEM battery removed. Last look!
It was too hard to manoeuvre the 7Kg (2KW)
TC Charger ** in and around the rear of the car, so I made a
cardboard mock-up of the aluminium bracket and the charger using
the ever useful hot glue and some metal clips to hold the
"charger" to the "bracket". The white pieces of foam represent the
three 240 Volt fans which will be running while the charger is
** Brand: TC Charger, Model: TCCH-H289.5-08, setup in the factory
for 277.4V (76 off LiFePo4 cells @ 3.65V) Type: Enable
The cardboard bracket was trimmed on the
RHS to match the internals of the boot...
... and at the same time keeping the whole
The cardboard template is then sprayed
with aluminium metalizer to produce this bracket. Actually it
was formed from 3mm aluminium sheet. The holes for the fans were cut and
and the panel was bent
into shape by Nathan B. Thanks Nathan.
5mm nutserts (rivnuts/threaded inserts) were placed top and bottom where the
charger is to mount, except for the bottom right (to the left in
the photo). The 240V fans are now mounted and wired.
5mm nutserts were place in the seam of the
car body in four places. The bottom right one also holds the
charger in that position.
Bracket with fans pre-mounted is then
installed in the car.
In the top left there is a 5mm nutsert on the aluminium panel
with a 5mm screw which places pressure into an indentation in the
car panel to secure it at this point.
The mounting holes in the "Output" end
of the charger were
slotted to allow easy mounting.
The bottom two charger mounting screws were
made captive with a gap just wide enough to slide the bottom
bracket of the charger into. The charger is then held in place
with the top screws.
This was necessary because of the close proximity of the charger
to the battery frame. Access to the bottom screws is very limited
once everything is in the car, and the charger will have to be
able to be removed easily to access the control and contactors
The charger is then mounted on the bracket
and it fits perfectly, and it's vertical!
This shows how it is mounted out of the
The trim is now cut to fit around the
charger, without looking too ugly.
This photo shows the charger tucked neatly away,
with the trim replaced.
Installing the Charging Port
Added by admin 23/10/14
The charging port is to
be installed onto the rear plastic bumper bar. In this case the left
was chosen, because of proximity to where the charger is
to be mounted.
The following photos show the progress...
The 240V Power inlet is available from Caravans Plus:
Power Inlets, 15amp, Weatherproof lid, WHITE." from here:
The POWERUN type was selected because it has
no screws visible when the cover is closed unlike other brands.
Firstly, remove this cover
from under the back left of the vehicle, to allow access to the inside
of the bumper.
This shows the layout on the
bumper after using a black marker with the soft gasket, that was
supplied with the outlet, as a template. The exact position is not a problem as
there is plenty of space behind the bumper. Look for the flattest
section of the bumper. Just try and get it vertical!
Drill the 4 holes to suit the 4mm stainless
(countersunk) bolts (eg. 4.5mm).
Cut inside the line with a Dremel, with a
burr cutter installed or similar. Don't run the Dremel too fast
as it will melt the plastic and inhibit the cutting action. Don't
It should then look something like this...
The 240Volt cable is then fed from inside
the boot through the existing rubber plug/grommet, which has to have a hole placed in
it. Leave plenty of cable inside the boot for future connection. Notice
the grey communications cable which connects the PIS Rear Box to the
PIS Front Box. Also, the black covered cable is the control wires from
the main battery box connection.
Under the car the cable is routed so that
it is out of the way and plenty left for re-terminating as
This will be covered up when the plastic cover panel is
This photo was very hard to get - I just
held the camera up inside the bumper and... flash!
The 240V power inlet is wired outside the
car - prior to mounting on the bumper.
The power inlet is then
installed, using the thin foam gasket, with the 4mm stainless
steel, countersunk bolts. I used what I had, they could have been
much shorter. They probably only need to be about 25mm long.
Notice, I used stainless mudguard washers (25mm) and then a
smaller washer and then a spring washer. The mudguard washers helps
to spread the load on the plastic bumper. The top mudguard
washers had to be cut to fit around the inlet housing.
The final result... with more appropriate
labels over the original "Inlet 15A"
Making the Battery Frame
Added by admin
Updated 23/10/14 and 30/03/15
The Plug-In Supply kit has an option to use four plastic cell holder
modules in the "10KW" kit.
I decided to go a different way and make a steel battery frame
which is then fixed to the vehicle.
One of the reasons for doing this is to allow the LEDs on each
cell's BMS module to be visible through a clear polycarbonate
sheet, once the Genuine Toyota one piece mat has been removed.
Doing this meant that I would not be carrying a spare wheel in
the normal position (under the steel frame!)
Instead, I will be carrying a Slime/Air Compressor unit which
fits nicely under the front seat.
For trips away & holidays I will place the spare wheel in the
back of the car with the associated tools.
I will be having the complete plan
available to anyone wanting to copy this design.
The welding, drilling and countersinking was
by Ray from Hammat Precision Engineering. Thanks Ray - great job.
The frame has been designed especially to
hold 76 off 40Ah (Winston WB-LYP40AHA) LiFePO4 cells.
This series of photos shows the battery
The base of the frame has been welded..
... with all the welds cleaned up
and inside as well using the Dremel - Great
The frame is made from 20 x 20 x 3mm steel angle and 20 x 3mm
flat steel for the cell support (next to Dremel grinding head)
Positioning the base of the frame in the
Prius to determine the mounting positions.
Here it is drilled and countersunk - 10
A close up...
This is how the frame is mounted to the
car. Ten holes were drilled to match the frame holes and then
5mm Threaded Inserts (Rivnuts, Nutserts, Rivet Nuts (or whatever
else you want to call them!) were installed in the holes. The
insert shows how a Threaded Insert works.
The frame has now been completed regards to
welding, with the final cleanup underway.
Just testing the cell positioning and the
hold down arrangement and the cover sheet support mechanism.
There are 27 off 6mm diam (180mm long) hold down (threaded) rods welded to the frame
After applying the undercoat...
Now it's gloss black and testing the
position in the rear of the Prius. It fits perfectly...
Looking towards the right...
Checking the pressure plate method of clamping
the cells, showing just one row.
A close-up of the clamping mechanism. This
uses 8mm nuts welded to the frame and then 8mm bolts to apply the
clamping pressure. Only tighten just enough to ensure that the
cells are firmly clamped together.
The pressure plate is made from 3mm aluminium sheet. The final
bolts will have hex heads for easier access in the limited space.
A view from the other side. Notice how the
aluminium pressure plate is slotted to allow it to move over the
bottom rails freely.
Another view of the cell hold down
arrangement and cover support. Hardware is all 6mm; using
mudguard washers, split spring washer and nuts. The top
nut/washers, which were joined with silver solder, are still to
be painted and will eventually be covered
....and then when you think it's all done -
your realise that you have to get electrons out of the pack
though some sort of exit ports on the end of the frame. An extra
piece of 30mm x 2mm steel was added to the two corners requiring the
plastic bush, because of the size of the hole required (approx
18mm) to take the bushing. Careful measurement to ensure the hole was horizontally
and vertically in line with where the terminal was to go on to
the cell(s). The bushing was then anchored to the frame using "JB-Weld"
epoxy resin. The plastic bushes used were originally a "5-10mm
DIA IP68 Waterproof Cable Glands" Jaycar Part Number: HP0727. The
extended threaded section (shown) was eventually cut off flush
with the surface of the hex nut. The "JB-Weld" can be
purchased from Jaycar or Masters.
Grind it off flush with the inside surface,
after the JB Weld has set - which leaves a nice plastic bushing...
... do the same both sides (made a mess of
the paint job!)
Then I repainted the end - again. That's
better! Now - the battery frame is complete.
The next 5 photos were added March 30, 2015...
This one shows that I have placed another plastic bushing...
this time for the BMS wires etc. to exit the battery frame.
Notice also the felt (self adhesive) stuck to the top surface of
the frame. This is for the polycarbonate sheet to sit on. I have
placed a tapped hole (5mm) in the centre of each side top angle
so that I can eventually fix the polycarbonate sheet down
securely with some fancy countersunk screws.
The extra bushing was done was done on both sides of the left
hand end. The same method of fixing was used as for the larger
ones described earlier.
Just checking on how the (27) felt covered nut/washer
assemblies will support the polycarbonate sheet (clear) which
will lay on top of this structure when completed. All felt
surfaces are to adjusted to be level with the felt covered frame.
A close up of one of the supports, showing the three layers:
nut, washer and felt.
This shows the polycarbonate sheet temporarily in place (with
protective sheets still in place). I won't be able to take this
sort of photo when all the cells have been installed.
The total weight of the steel battery frame, including the
aluminium clamping plate is 11Kg.
We are now ready to install the battery frame into the
Connecting to the EV Switch wiring
Added by admin 16/12/13
The Plug-In Supply kit requires a connection to the EV Switch
wiring which connects to Pin 27 of the ECU connector (H14). Under
the control of firmware, the PIS Front Control Box sends a signal
via this connection, as required.
This series of photos shows the connection into the EV
NOTE: It is assumed that you have
disconnected the 12 volt auxiliary battery.
Also note that you take full responsibility for any result of
These notes and photos are presented here as a guide as to how I
performed this connection.
(The Australian version of the Prius
comes with the EV Switch
(Button) (shown at right) already
installed from the Toyota manufacturing plant. This means that the requirement of "Try EV pin harvesting" is
not necessary. Pin 27 of the ECU connector (H14) is already wired
the Prius EV switch.)
The process below shows how to connect to this wire.
The first step is to remove the lower glove box.
Apply pressure at the two points indicated by the red arrows. and
ease the glove box down past the side supports.
As you gently lift the glove box outwards, disconnect the
dampener on the left hand side.
The glove box can now be lifted clear to reveal the wiring on the
left hand side as shown below.
Glove box removed, showing connectors...
The connector we require is indicted by the red arrow.
Remove the grey connector (H14) as indicated so that you can get access
to the black wire indicated below.
Note: To make it easy to access, I removed the white connector to
the right of the grey one.
This photo shows the connection to the black wire (Pin 27),
and an earth wire (green) has been bolted under a nearby bolt,
after having an appropriate round lug crimped on.
An exploded view of the black wire connection. This has
been soldered then covered with a short length of heatshrink
tubing. I cut the original black wire and placed the heatshrink
on prior to making the solder connection. I used black to
continue with the same colour scheme and then the earth wire had to be
green, didn't it. (I would have normally used black for the earth wire).
You can use whatever colours you like.
This photo shows the connectors placed back in there sockets
and the wiring supported to the frame above the filter box.
I used mini "Anderson" connectors here so that I can easily
connect the Front Control Box at installation time.
Note: I used a red connector on the black "live" EV switch wire
and a black one on the earth connection.
Replace the lower glove box, remembering to attach the dampener on the
Other than this connection, the OBD2 connection and the 'Patch' cable from the Front
PIS Control Box to the Rear PIS Control Box, the only
other wiring connected to the front of the car is the ICE Kill
switch, which I will describe soon...
Plug-in Supply "Front Controller"
Added by admin 9/9/13
This photo shows the connections to the PIS Front Controller and
future blog entries will show more detail of some of these
connections to the Prius wiring.
- The EV switch wiring is found in the grey plug to the left of
the glove box, photo details soon.
- The OBD2 connection goes to the OBD2 socket under the steering
- The "Patch" cable is to be routed under all of the door sill
panels etc. to the rear of the car.
This forms a one way communication link from the Front to the Rear
- The ICE Kill Switch "Extension' connects into the black wire
connected to Pin 4 of connector E7.
More info on that later.
Cost: $US450.00 plus USPS freight. Note PIS pricing structure has
now changed. See
www.pluginsupply.com for more details.
ICE Kill Switch Wiring
Added by admin 8/10/15
The ICE Kill Switch is a momentary switch mounted on the Front
Controller (as seen in the photo in the Front Controller section).
This switch allows the Prius to run on battery alone. The power
available is obviously limited and so the car should only be
driven on the flat and at speeds not exceeding 70km per hour.
The only way to start the engine again is the stop the car,
turn it off and restart it.
Only push the switch while in EV mode and not when the engine is
running. The instantaneous fuel consumption should be reading
0.0Litres/100km prior to pushing the switch. If it is pushed
while the engine is running the Front Controller may not be able
to reset the error code (big red triangle etc.), which it
This section will show the wiring of this switch into the
Connection is made into the black wire which is connected to Pin4
of the white connector E7.
Before beginning, familiarise yourself with the first
section of the "Connecting to the EV Switch Wiring", where we disconnect the
battery and then remove the glove box. Once this is removed the
Connecter E7 is accessible.
This is the connecter that is worked on. (White E7)
Remove the connector from the socket and then cut the black wire
well away from the connector.
eg. to the left of the arrow as shown here.
Then connect a blue wire (or the colour of your choice) to each
of the cut ends. The ICE kill switch is wired in series with this
black wire. Insulate the connections well. The switch actually
disables the "Engine Control Module" by removing 12V power to it.
The wires are then routed with the "EV Switch" wires around the
rear of the dashboard as shown to keep the wiring neat and out of
The wires are then brought behind and out of the centre front
console, as shown. Ensure that mini Anderson connectors are
placed on the blue wires. They must remain connected together
until the front controller box is installed, otherwise the engine
will not run.
This shows the final wiring of the Front Controller box. The only
wiring not shown here is the "Patch cable" which connects the Front
Controller box to the Rear Controller box. This cable is routed
down the right hand side of the vehicle (driver's side in
Australia) and then up under the dash and down to combine with
the "ICE Kill" , "EV Switch" and OBD2 wiring. It is kept on the right
hand side to keep it clear of the high voltage wiring which runs
down the left side of the vehicle.
It ends up looking pretty neat and out of the way, after a lot of
Steve G (Western Australia) - Wed, 30 Dec 2015 12:02:00
Hi Eric, thanks, this blog has been very helpful particularly for
converting my Australian (RH drive) Prius.
Tjoan - Thu, 23 Oct 2014 19:25:00
Hi Eric, What a great blog! I am now a regular follower of
your blog :-) It's amazing to see what you have done I have a
Prius 2010 that I want to convert as well using plugin supply
kit. I have been in contact with Robb lately. Do you happen to
know if there's anyone else who has done the conversion? I would
like to know how reliable the system is. Cheers, Tjoan